Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Not a bad way to end the year!

Summary
From sucky to fun. Life would have been better if I slept in for another hour and went then. Then again I was under the guise that I was off to work today, apparently not.
Waves
Pre-low tide, major sucky mush that was hard to pull into even on the fish. Once the tide started to rise a bit all got better. Certainly not perfect, but the occasional beautiful hollow shoulder would sweep through. Super bowly (and fun) inside if you pick the right one. They ended up getting pretty good and fun, decently steep drops and definitely a cutback or two, better than average for at least awhile.
Crowds
No one else until the tides started to swing. After a few guys came out, a few longboarders and a few shortboarders.
Weather
Spectacular foggy morning. Truly, it's difficult to describe but as the offshores pushed the fog out to sea one could see the outline of the land as the texture of the fog. But it was foggy, and for the visible offshores there really wasn't much of a breeze (which would have cleaned up the waves quite a bit...)
Forecast
Looks pretty mediocre. Windy days through my departure, but the mornings should (hopefully) be moderately surfable.
Eventful Stuff
None.
Wave of the Day
~5ft face, clean undeveloped shoulder, I paddle and catch it, straight down the little face for some speed, cutback, then shacked for about 10 seconds all the way inside. As the wave is about to closeout I shoot for a floater but I'm just a tad too late and the lip snags my board right at the top and tosses me off. Both of the shortboarders saw me get that wave, and though it was pretty simple it was undoubtedly the hollowest wave of the day.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-9:45
4-5ft 11sec
Still->Offshore
3/5

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