Summary
6ft 8sec waves are not fun to be duck diving under, one after another. All in all it's not too bad. Relatively high tide meant the waves had some good steep shoulders. Not long, but long enough for a turn or two on the good ones. Gimmie more!
Waves
Perhaps the best, cleanest, most fun windswell waves I remember. Shoulders right and left, a bit mushy but steep and fast breaking enough that that was no problem. Not tons of cutbacks, but most waves were one plus a whack-a-face. Fun, until the winds came.
Crowds
Aside from the giant sea lions swimming about---me, myself and I.
Weather
A break from the storm. The morning was sunny skies for the first hour, then the gloom swept in (and blew out the waves!)
Forecast
Yes. Good. Shorter period than perfect, but that means less people so it is perfect. Today's size should be the smallest in the next week. Conditions only improve with a few days of stiff offshores.
Eventful Stuff
Two guys came out right as I was leaving. I thought it was funny because they were in the water less than 15 minutes and they headed back to their cars. Guess the cold isn't for everyone.
Wave of the Day
There are a few that compete for this, but I think this would be the oh-snap!-I-made-that-drop wave, which was pretty much a really steep head high sideways drop, one pseudo-half cutback to stay on the center of the wave, and shooting right for the shoulder breaking the other way. I could have kicked out but I thought it would be fun to just go for it (when isn't it?)
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
8:00-9:30
4-6ft with occasional bigger, 7-8sec windswell
Still->Onshore
3/5
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