Good thing I can multitask well!
Summary
Friggen fun.
Waves
The forecast overestimated today's wave size. Yes, they were quality, but they were 1-2ft smaller than predictions. Don't get me wrong, the size was perfect shredable fun size, but a few more feet probably would have helped with consistency a little. Super fun shoulders left and right all over the place, and while California Street was pretty hollow, County Line was ridiculously hollow.
Crowds
Since we walked more than half the way to Emma Wood, there were very few people surfing the quality peaks we were at. There was a heck of a lot of seaweed though, even though the tides weren't anywhere near low. County Line was packed like no other---cars parked on both sides of the highway.
Weather
Cold morning, breezy offshore, overall quite chilly. Things shaped up and Malibu actually ended up being sunny for most of the day.
Forecast
Looking medicore. By mediocre I mean far better than the lame south swells at Surfrider, so the truth is pretty good. Finals week, but I should be able to get out every day except maybe Monday (but I'm dedicated so don't count on that!) As for the return-home session. While it's long range forecasts---next Friday looks like there's a building NW swell up in NorCal, with typical fall weather (aka light winds/early offshores). Basically Carmel should be head high to 1-2ft overhead barrels. Umm, yes.
Eventful Stuff
Where to start?
Apparently we fit 5 boards (3 roof 2 inside) and 5 people in my little Mazda. That made for an interesting little drive. Basically going to take fins off next time and put them all on the roof. Much better idea!
I had some effing amazing waves today. The rest of the crew was a tad skeptical about the session (referring it to it as basically a "good day of surfing") I thought it was pretty dang amazing. Not perfect, not huge, not ridiculous, but dang fun, good size, and managable.
One amazing wave both Steve and Eric W missed the drop, and I thought to myself, "Oh snap, this looks like a nice shoulder..." Super steep drop, amazing hollow face, fast breaking but I ended up going so fast I managed three cutbacks and a wraparound, staying in the perfect pocket for essentially the entire wave. After I paddle back out Mia basically says she was on the inside and saw me on most of that wave, barreled with turns and wraparounds, that that would have made an absolutely sick picture. Wave of the day for sure. Shiat, gimmie more!
County Line was absolutely ridiculous. I don't even know how many ridiculous barrels I got but for sure you'd have to have three or four hands. Pretty short session but it was wave after wave after wave. The most fun was 1-2ft overhead, steep right, one cutback, then down the face, in a legit head high barrel for 3ish seconds before the wave bounced off the shallow sandbar and trounced me.
Oh, and at County some jerkwad ran over my board TWICE, nailing my rails both times. I don't hold it entirely against him as I did drop in on him the second time (which is when my left rail got a nasty gash...already fixed) but it still makes me sad to see lame damage like that. Boo!
Summary:
California Street, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
6:15AM-8:30AM
4-6ft with occasional overhead sets, 14sec
Offshore
Steve, Mia, Eric W, Eric B
4/5
County Line, Ventura County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
11:00-12:30PM
3-5ft w/ head+ sets , 14 sec
Crossshore
3/5
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