Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Hmm...

Summary
Mediocre.
Waves
Tough suckers today. There were some good shoulders out there, just not for me. Stormswell conditions made paddling out quite an ordeal. Hit or miss, either easy or hard. Mostly hard. Highish tide meant lots of closeouts right atop you.
Crowds
Seeing as conditions were supposed to be pretty decent today, there were a handful out. Two or three on the beachbreak and four or five farther south on the sandbar. A crowded weekday.
Weather
Beautiful morning. I'm not sure I've seen the sky so dauntingly beautiful here since last winter.
Forecast
Friday on looks great. Tomorrow is a stormy morn windswell, but given what I saw out here yesterday definitely worth a shot.
Eventful Stuff
Just the current. The paddling-200-feet-north-every-time-I-take-a-wave current. I really should mess around on my 7'6" sometime. Oh how much easier paddling would be. So much easier. Oh, and I start working again tomorrow for a week. Yea.
Wave of the Day
I think I had one good wave. Actually, I think I really only had one worthwhile wave. Sweet right shoulder, straight drop, bottom turn, cutback, then pretty much straight on the walling up face. For some reason I feel like this is the same wave I've described every day for the last week. Well, it was fun.


Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:30-8:45
5-7ft with occasional bigger, 14sec stormswell
Still->Onshore
2/5

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