Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Or Westwards today...

Summary
And it was good. Every wave a sick barrel. Set waves up to shoulder high. Significantly bigger than any other break around. Good choice for sure. Oh, and I have now surfed six spots in the past week. Ridiculous.
Waves
Waist to chest high with shoulder high sets. Good size, fast, good shape (though typical Westwards closeouty shape). There were a few cutbacks, mostly just sick vertical drops and barrels.
Crowds
There were a handful surfing one of the other peaks. There were two other sharing my peak, much much farther inside.
Weather
Sunny, warm, board shorts weather. I started a little too early though...before the sun came over the hill, so I was chilly.
Forecast
Beautiful. Perfection. People talk about combo swell all the time...doesn't matter. It's all about the sandbars here. I anticipate MACKING Westwards and PERFECT head high Latigo. High expectations, starting tomorrow afternoon.
Eventful Stuff
2" fin slash on my foot. That didn't feel good. Other than that just some loud obnoxious teenagers.
Wave of the Day
One right and one left each. Both were 5ft bombs, beautiful drops, the right had a perfectly timed and placed cutback, the left had a perfect whole-ride cover up. Beautifully fun.

Summary:
Westwards, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:15-8:30AM
3-4ft w/ 5ft sets long period
3/5

Zuma, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
8:45-9:15AM
2-3ft w/ 4ft sets
1+/5

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