Summary
Seriously though. Some of the most fun waves I've ever had here. Sunny, warm enough for boardshorts, lots of kelp, lots of fun. Some serious potential, and some seriously shredded waves.
Waves
A few bowly sections. Certainly once the wave hits the inside it walls up really nice perfect for a little finisher. I was on the fish so the potential was limited, but the waves were relatively mushy (though surprisingly super fun...) Good choice. Everything else looked completely blown out (Zuma/Westwards) or not fun (County).
Crowds
At County there certainly was. One guy at Leo. One friggen guy is it. We were both like, "Wtf, this is as good as Leo gets...why the hell is no one else out?" Although not complaining...
A few more others came out, pretty much none of them could surf so the break was still pretty much ours.
Weather
Beautiful! Sunny, breezy, a nice little beach crowd. Couldn't ask for more...although you could ask for less wind. It was pretty crossy here though, so it didn't kill the waves at all.
Forecast
Looks pretty optimistic. Waves through next weekend. Late Thursday/Friday there's a big swell coming...head high for sure. Yay!
Eventful Stuff
Crazy guy? Comes out, mumbling strange shit. Kind of reminded me of the crazy, lonely homeless guys who cruise up and down the coast.
Oh, I'm feeling pretty dang punky today. I needed to get some water time, it always makes me feel better (especially when it's so damn fun!)
Wave of the Day
There were so many fun bowly little drops right on the rock. Honestly I had half a dozen take me all the way inside. There were bunches of turns and wraps, a few completely forced coverups...quite fun waves. All the 30+sec waves qualify for this category...
Summary:
Leo Carrillo, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
9:00-11:15AM
3-4ft w/ 5ft + sets
3+/5
Friday, July 17, 2009
...fun Leo Carrillo? Seriously?
Labels:
3/5,
legit surfing,
Leo Carrillo,
Socal,
Southpoint,
summer,
surfing
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