Supposedly the internet really sucks at forecasting. Surfrider was filled with some pretty intense offshore winds, decent (but intensely clean) waves. Yes, the 6ft early morning high tide messes things up a bit, but the reality is there were some pretty fun little sets in the morning---and there was literally no one else out. I had two snoozes so I got there after sunrise, but when I did there were three people at first and none at second/third. It wasn't until more than an hour and a half later that anyone else came up to 2nd (and it genuinely wasn't bad at all!)
Early morning started off with some pretty stiff offshores, but they slowly toned down over the whole of the session. Overall that wind plus the upwelling (ass cold water) from the NW swell made the morning a shivering session.
After eating my two caf omelets I decided that the session didn't quite do enough to sate my thirst for surf. I drove up 1, thinking about Staircase or County Line, but as I was driving by Zuma I saw some nice size sets with some defined, slablike shoulders. Needless to say, I drove no farther. That was one of the best decisions I've made in a while, Zuma was mad fun. Shoulders left and right, pretty hollow little pockets every which way (until they folded over you on the inside.) The waves here are always fast (and usually closeouts) but today there was plenty of time for two or three nice turns per wave. Good size 4+ft sets with droling 15min+ waits, it could be better but this is the best I've seen Zuma in quite awhile.
Maybe I'm a weird guy, but I talked to some homeless guy walking up PCH for about ten minutes. Needless to say, I am very glad that I'm a student in college...
Summary:
Surfrider 2, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
6:30AM-9:30AM (16-20sec)
2-3ft with plus sets
Strong offshore
2/5 overall
Zuma s9-10
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
10:30-12:00
2-3ft with plus sets (16-20sec)
Slight onshore
3/5 overall
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
A very fun cold and windy...
Labels:
3/5,
fall,
homeless guy,
Socal,
surfing,
White Dove,
windy as sin,
Zuma
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