Summary
Rocking hard. Decent waves, inconsistent, but when the good sets came through clean shoulders (at County) and fun closeouts (at Zuma). Beautiful day, far more promising overall than any forecasts had predicted. Well worth it.
Waves
Generally small, but overall far more managable size than I was expecting. Forecasts (and buoys) have a dinky swell, but there is certainly a bit of power in the water. Generally waist high, the tide push at County helped size a bit, but basically had waves plunging on shore.
Crowds
I was alone at County for 45 minutes, slowly people started getting in the water as they watched me destroy the plunging slabs. Zuma had a few people, but overall not crowded by any means.
Weather
Sunny, warm. Smoke is gone for whatever reason, so the air quality is far better. Offshores were just shifting as I left Zuma, so conditions were starting to mush up a bit.
Forecast
I'm not sure what to expect tomorrow exactly, the SSW swell should be about the same, so maybe it won't actually be bad. We'll see in the morning. The weekend is looking hopeful though, almost 3ft of swell, 14+sec groundswell, so hopefully there will be some decent chest+ waves. Probably not, but oh well. I know that Thanksgiving is going to be bomb down here, and as I look at forecasts for my journey back north, I see 13ft, 14sec swell, and cold water. Double overhead is as big any of my boards can take....shiat!
Eventful Stuff
One dude was shredding at Zuma. Duct tape on the (missing) nose of his board, catching dinky waves like no other, popping his board all over the place. I wish I had asked him what he was riding, because that thing was fast as sin and manuverable---/jealous. I saw dolphins again, popping out of the water maybe ten feet from me. No matter how often I see them fins still scare me. Seriously though, why does Zuma have so many dolphins? I don't get it.
My most fun wave of the day was the one perfect right shoulder I had a Zuma. This was a monster for the day, 5ft face, perfect form, barreling far enough out from shore that it was a decent carvable ride. Two heavy heavy pumps, hard cutback, two intense pumps, whack-a-face-then-get-owned-by-closing-out-wave. That wave alone was worth sitting in the water for an hour and a half, no lie.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura
7'6" Al Merrick M13
7:00-10:00AM
2-3ft w/ bigger sets 14sec
Slight offshore
3/5 overall
Zuma s9, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
11:00AM-12:30PM
2-3ft 14sec
Still-> onshore
2/5
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
Not too bad...
Labels:
3/5,
County Line,
dolphins,
fall,
M13,
Malibu,
Socal,
surfing,
White Dove,
Zuma
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