I really don't like getting up at 5:30 =( but surfing makes me =)
Summary
The surf was fun. Mushy, kind of (very) crappy, but there were some fun clean shoulders popping up every once in a while. Surfrider was absolute unridable mush, so I'm glad Eric/I went up to County because surprisingly it was holding up far better.
Fish are fun little boards, but certainly a shift. It's amazing how intense you can dig on the rails and have the board hold on. If it slips that's fun too, just not quite in the same way. Generally backside is my stronger side for drops for whatever reason, but on this fishy I destroy frontside waves, backside not so much.
Waves
Junky windswell. Fun junky windswell. The reality is that because the period was so short, there were endless waves to chose from. Not the cleanest waves in the world, but certainly fun ones. Not big, but decent 3-4ft, generally pretty mushy. For about 45 minutes the world cleared up and the ocean was glassy beautiful, offshore winds cleaning up faces and giving some nice workable shoulders. In short: far better than it looked from a glance.
Crowds
None whatsoever. There were two people out when Eric and I first went, and about six or seven more came in the next two hours. If you saw a wave, it was yours.
Weather
Generally gloomy, but overall far more inspiring than Malibu. Overcast, no rain but you know that there was just an hour or two earlier. Cool breeze for most of the morning, shifting from cross-shore chop to offshore glority after about the first hour, before finally ending up with onshore mush. The storm was supposed to be over, but apparently not.
Forecast
We'll see. Fading S/SW swell through the week, winds should die tomorrow to give Surfrider some doable waves. The weekend holds potential tropical storm down in Mexico, but it should provide waist to chest+ here in LA at best, and that's hopeful. Basically winter has started, but the sure sure as heck ain't here yet.
Eventful Stuff
I barely persuaded Eric to get in the water---when we first got there it looked like absolute unsurfable mush. The reality is it was a lot better than it looked, and it only got better.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura
5'11" Southpoint
6:30AM-9:45AM
3-4ft faces, windswell
Cross->off->on
2/5 overall
Tuesday, November 4, 2008
Daylight savings makes me sad
Labels:
2/5,
County Line,
fall,
friends,
Socal,
Southpoint,
surfing,
windswell
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