Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Killing me with the small waves...

Summary
Fun. Small, but fun. For being 2-3ft waves, they were surprisingly carvable. Pumping a fish is absolutely hilarious. I'm not sure if it works or not, but it feels so funny that it's worth it simply for that.
Waves
Small, dinky, but certainly entertaining. There were moderately long breaking right and left shoulders all over the place. While consistency was certainly an issue, when the sporadic waves did appear, there were turns and wraparounds (little, mediocre ones, but I think they still qualify...)
Crowds
Hmm, Mia and I were the only two at second for almost an hour. Whatever waves you wanted were yours.
Weather
Sunny, warm, pretty windless. The morning was chilly, but the rest of the day here has been beautiful.
Forecast
Lacking, same as yesterday. This weekend should be fun with NW swell hitting Friday, really filling in on Saturday. Basically California Street early Sat morn---chest high+, clean, beautiful, fun. Basically Thanksgiving is going to rape me because there is no shortage of Norcal swell. I think I'm going to have to explore and look for a super super super sheltered beach, because 13-15ft 15 sec swell is just a bit too big. Hopefully the storms die down a little and become somewhat more managable. I'll probably bring all my boards home to make life a little easier (since I don't really use the 7'6" much, might as well just use the fish...)
Eventful Stuff
Nil too exciting. Tons of fun waves, I think I had two or three cutbacks & a whack-a-face on one, so while small there certainly was a little carvability. Mia was party waving me whenever she could, so I decided to jack her 1ft wave, and ended up on my knees squatting like no other, ending up going a few hundred feet (in a straight line) ending up in water about thigh deep. The other Pepperdine folks there were absolutely obnoxious.

Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
5'11" Southpoint
7:15-9:30AM
2-3ft 14sec
Still
3/5

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