Summary
I think I had like three waves before I called it quits. Three long ass waves, but three waves nonetheless. The beach is just too walled up and sloppy---masses of whitewater. Fun when you're on the waves, but not fun to get out there.
Waves
You can just look at the 46013 buoy here out at Pt Reyes. I look at that (after surfing) and see 9ft+ closeouts, and lots of sore muscles. Paddling out was not fun. I'm not sure what to say about the 21 sec dominant period, but I really wish it were that minus ~5 feet, + sunny warm air, -afternoon offshores. Then paddling out on a fish would be easy.Crowds
People are afraid of fog and big waves. Today held both, and as such there were only 5-10 people out early on. Once the fog started to clear (and as I look outside now) there's at least 15 out.
Weather
Foggy, pseudo overcast weather. Offshores are supposed to continue throughout the day, and it's clearing up quite a bit. Still a bit hazy at the beach, but for being a fall afternoon it is absolutely gorgeous.
Forecast
Size should (hopefully) drop a little bit this afternoon, before being supported by the new NW swell tomorrow. Basically this afternoon should be 6-8ft (especially as the tide drops...should make paddling a bit easier). Tomorrow down at Carmel should be ridiculous. My shortie should be fixed by then (a tiny bit more epoxy and some sanding!) and I'm pretty sure that's the board I want to use in double overhead surf...
Socal looks dull and boring. 3-4ft for the rest of the week...fun but pretty small. I have like four essays to write in the next week so I'm not sure how much surfing I'm going to even be able to get in. Actually I'll be honest, just as much as I usually do.
Eventful Stuff
I'm not the only one who had three waves and called it quits. As I was checking the surf just a few minutes ago two surfers were talking and I heard "So much whitewater, I got three OK waves and just didn't feel like paddling for twenty minutes to get back out."
I did have one super long right, I went to the outside where some longboarders were, and got one ~40second right, to just before the inside break. In that sense the day was a success, but it was pretty much a straight line trying to keep up speed.
I also surfed (or rather tried to) in the afternoon. Once I got past the impact zone (aka the ridiculous mesh of whitewater) the current started dragging me North at an obscene rate. As soon as I noticed this I started paddling in, which was almost futile because I was also stuck in a nice little rip current spot, so pushed out to sea as well. By the time I got back onto shore I was almost past the whole of the beach, already getting into the rocky area. I'm not going to say I panicked, but pretty damn close. My arms are more sore from the thirty minutes of paddling here than any session I've had in the last month. Time for pizza, ice cream, and a nap.
The session went like this:
20 min - paddling/duck diving to get out
3 min - sitting past impact zone looking for waves before really taking alarm at the strong current
15 min - paddling in/trying to get back into the impact zone/past the rip section
10 min - walking back (and I walk fast) to where I paddled out on the beach
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-9:45AM
6-9ft 14sec---walls of whitewater
Slight offshore
2/5
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
12:15-1:00PM
wall upon wall of 6-9ft whitewater
Onshore
0/5 genuinely sucky---it looked a lot more managable than it ended up being
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