Summary
Swell does not exist at Surfrider. Literally, I look at noon and CDIP showed Southern Hemisphere 0ft, 25sec period. Talk about flat.
Stables (the not-as-mushy peaky part just North of C-Street) was pretty damn fun. Not perfect, not clean, but certainly entertaining.
Waves
Saying Surfrider was small is an understatement---there were like 2 3ft waves, and I'm pretty sure I got both of them on the fish. The day basically consisted of Mia/I joking around and dropping in on each other on every wave. There were some turns and wraparounds, but honestly I was really pushing for it.
Stables was a blast. The NW started filling in in the afternoon, and by 2 the models were really showing its power. Decently long period (14sec groundswell) and good size. Faces were consistently 4ft when we arrived, quickly as the afternoon went on (both because of the tide push and the strengthening swell itself.) By sunset waves were consistently shoulder high, sets reaching 1-2ft overhead. Basically sets were connecting from Stables to the pier. Mad effing fun.
Crowds
Surfrider defined dead.
Stables...apparently people don't like to surf on afternoons when it's not perfect. Perfect enough for me, I say.
Weather
Sunny, cross/onshore winds, chilly, but overall quite pleasant.
Forecast
Tomorrow should be fun. We shall see.
Eventful Stuff
I bought a Patagonia wetsuit and booties. My 4/3 O'Neill firewall is worn out, has holes in the rear shoulders, the right knee pad is about to fall off, and the seams are coming apart at most of the pressure points. It's gotten its use, but its time has come. Let me be the first to say, this wetsuit is worth every penny. Ass expensive, yes, but it's not possible to tell you how comfortable, flexible, and warm it is. You have to try it on for yourself, and you will be an instant convert.
Notable waves---there was one fiveish second cover up, some nice shoulders with 2-3 turns, overall just a tad too mushy for amazing surf on my shortie. Regardless, I think it was amazing simply because it came out of nowhere. Friggen the 7-8ft monster sets were hilarious, steep drops, with the option of a straight shot towards shore (before it closes out) or get covered up and spit out by it closing out ontop of you. Shoulders...damn you high tide...not so much.
Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
5'11" Southpoint
7:15-10:00AM
1-2ft with very occasional 3ft set 14sec
Still
Mia
1.5/5
California Street, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
3:00-5:30PM
4-5ft with overhead sets occasionally (12-14sec)
Onshore breeze
Steve
4/5 (so I'll rank the day as a 4 simply because it probably was one of the top sessions in the past two months)
Friday, November 21, 2008
How swell...
Labels:
4/5,
C-Street,
fall,
friends,
good size waves,
Socal,
Southpoint,
surfing,
Surfrider,
White Dove
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