Sunday, November 30, 2008

Black eye what?

Summary
Norcal/Central California are macking huge today. I neither have a gun nor have an immediate desire to get one. I did find a few nice breaks that I want to hit up, but probably not until my trip back home. Oh well.
Waves
Northern California/Central California was 2x-3x+ overhead, no doubt. Super long period swell, tons of wrap, I'm not sure there were really any truly surfable beaches (and I drove down along Hwy 1 so I would have taken note. Pico Beach, the point break, was absolutely firing. I was tempted to surf their 2x overhead waves, but felt that more injury to the nose would be a very bad idea.
County Line was 2-4ft pretty much, some bigger sets but consistency was not there at all.
Crowds
Laugh. I was alone surfing in Carmel, though there were some guys surfing some 3x overhead waves by the point? there were not many. County was mad busy because it was the only spot picking up some of the West swell that wasn't completely and utterly blown out.
Weather
Foggy up and down the coast. County was sunny and relatively warm (and sheltered from the nasty onshores plaguing all of Ventura/Santa Barbara county on the drive down this afternoon)
Forecast
Socal looks like it's got a good week ahead for it. Not sure what exactly but hopefully 3-5ft off and on at various spots (aka West facing beaches that catch a little of this super long period Norcal wrap...)
Eventful Stuff
On a failed duckdive in Carmel (because three 9ft+ waves walled up only 3-4 seconds after one another?) I nailed my nose with my board AGAIN. No blood, but my nose is nasty bruised and I'm pretty sure it's giving me a black eye. Other than that nil.
Summary:
Carmel Beach, Monterey County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:00-7:30AM
6-9ft shorebreak , 15-16sec; 18+ft 20+sec on the outside
Slight offshore
0/5

County Line, Ventura County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
2:00PM-4:15PM
2-4ft w/ + sets, 16 sec
Cross shore->Still
2/5

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