Friday, November 28, 2008

I could go for days like this every day

Summary
There aren't very many surfing days that are as good as today. It ranks only (laugh!) 4/5 because 1) the shortboard is OOC and I would have used it; 2) shoulders were truly difficult to find; 3) I got bitchslapped super hard by a LOT of closeouts.
Waves
Decent sized, fun waves. Once the tide started to fall at ~9:30, the waves started to become far more walled up (probably in part due to the fact that wave size jumped up a foot or two too...) The drops today were steep, sometimes too steep for the twin fin, the tail doing a little more sliding than I would generally like. There were some workable shoulders, pretty fast, hollow, but certainly not barreling like the past few sessions. Rather, the only barrels were the head high closeouts, which always end with a massive bitch slap. Ouch.
Crowds
The early part of the session was a good little solo surf, people slowly trickling in until there were maybe 10-15 people at the beach break, and 10 or so longboarders on the barreling left sandbar. A surprising amount of shorboarders, but there were some rippable waves, so it is no surprise.
Weather
I would kill for weather like this every day. Foggy early on (and I was worried when I woke up and looked outside) but the sunrise burned off the fog, pushing it out to see with some pretty decent offshore winds. The whole sky was florescent pink for a good long while, the glassy ocean the same indescribable glow as the sky. The sunny offshores continued throughout the day, even here when I got back from bond just after 5:00PM. No doubt, there were people surfing the whole day.
Forecast
Rocking it! Saturday and Sunday continue with more of this same amazing size, beautiful offshores. I have high expectations, at least 1-2ft overhead tomorrow (buoys are already reading 9-10ft, 16-17sec period) up to double overhead here at Dillon, offshores to continue and even strenghten tomorrow morning. Carmel is looking like a rocking barrelfest on Sunday, at least 7-8ft, 17sec period, offshores. I'm not looking forward to getting up at 4AM to drive there, but sacrafices must be made for good surf.
Eventful Stuff
After doing a bit of research on the internet, apparently my fish is only 5'10". Oops. Other than that just some firing waves. The current was actually pretty nasty, the paddle out after each wave taken pushing me down a good hundred feet down the beach.
The notable waves of the day go to the many steep drops on the fish, or rather the many attempted steep drops. It is truly indescribable how amusing it is to drop in on an almost-barreling 7ft face and have the tail slip beneath you, you facing the break and have the board slide backwards. Needless to say, I got schooled a few times by those.
The holes in the shortboard are partially filled in. They're both so bad I have to do a few epoxy repair sessions. Yuck.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:00-10:45AM
5-6ft early building to 7-8ft , 13-14sec
Slight offshore to breezy offshore
4+/5

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