I'll be honest and say that the shoulders were tricky little suckers today. I am quite glad I bought this new wetsuit, both for paddling and for the warmth (GO BOOTIES!). Some amazing waves, and unquestionably one of the best sessions I have had in the past three months--maybe even since those first two days at Carmel.
Waves
Wow, where to even begin. Today was the hollowest I have ever seen Dillon Beach. I'm not going to go so far as say consistently barreling, but there's no question that they are out there. Paddling out was pretty damn hard today, even on a shortboard. There was a pretty significant water depth change, so these 6+ft waves would all wall up and close out at one spot. Needless to say, paddling past that point was more a game of luck than stamina or skill. Sometimes it would open up right after your wave, sometimes there would be no opportunity for five plus minutes. Meanwhile the current drags you south to the creek mouth. Overall there were some amazingly steep drops, some mighty fun shoulders, and an unquestionably fun time.
Crowds
Let's not kid ourselves here, it's a Tuesday at a local beachbreak in Northern California. There were probably about 10 guys out when I woke up at 8, and slowly trickling down. At noon there were only five. Apparently there were thirty some over the weekend when there were chest-shoulder high waves and clean offshore conditions/sunny and warm. Basically fall/winter rock like no other.
Weather
Quite pleasant, typical coastal winterish morning. High 50's low 60's, moderately low cloud cover, it actually started raining for a little bit. The offshores were pretty strong, but not too blinding, and really did a wonderful job of cleaning up the faces.
Forecast
I'm not even going to bother wasting my time. Simply look to the right and you'll see what I do...maybe the best week of surf this year (and unquestionably the best Thanksgiving surf in a heck of a long time...)
Eventful Stuff
There were some pretty damn fun waves. Elusive shoulders perhaps, but even the walls gave some good rides.
One fun right was a clean 2ft overhead. Easy but steep 3 second drop, bottom turn, cutback to straighten out, then straight shot. I'm not sure how long it was but it went from nice shoulder to 8ft wall in about half a second. I'm riding at the base of the wave when I see this, so I turn to shoot off it instead of get wailed---instead, because the wave is so steep, it bitch slaps the whole right side of my body. I'd do that again in an instant.
One sweet barrel was a steep drop, the offshore spray so intense that I have to close my eyes, but the instant I open my eyes the wave walls up, I cut right, and the wave barrels me for about two seconds before I get spit out. Needless to say, I was not expecting that at all.
Some had the chance for some nice turns, I didn't have any wraparounds because the waves were overall so steep and fast breaking, but there probably was the opportunity for that every now and then.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
8:15-11:45AM
6-8ft 12sec
Nice strong offshore
5/5
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