Thursday, November 27, 2008

More head high barrels what?

Summary
I slammed the bottom of my board into my head twice. Quite literally there is a 5"x5"x1/2" dent in my board. I'm going to do a patch job so that I can use it for sure on Sunday, and hopefully on Saturday, but I don't know if I have enough epoxy to even fill it. No doubt though, the surf today was worth a little board scar, at least earlier on. As the tide started to fall the super hollow sections pretty much disappeared.
Waves
Basically beautiful and perfect. The early morning rising/high tide really lit Dillon up. Waves were touching the sandbar and bam, nice hollow shoulders. Not great for carving, but they open up like they never do for some sweet barrels. Occasionally a smaller set would roll through and give a nice shreddable shoulder, I think three turns was the max I had on any since today pretty much was racing against the closeout, but mad fun.
Crowds
Everyone gets Turkey day off. As such today is as crowded as DB ever gets. In other words there was a meager 25-30 out once the lot opened up, less than five before that.
Weather
Low clouds, cool air, cool water, small offshore wind. A spectacularly pleasant morning.
Forecast
Beautiful, fun, amazing. Nothing to say other than that. I think Sunday is a 7AM Carmel---especially if it's a clean 7-8ft, 14sec. Easy and hollow, shiat that's perfect!
Eventful Stuff
DB barreling? How often does that happen? Basically one of the first waves I took was unexpectedly hollow, completely covering me up barrel for at least two seconds. I opened my eyes and was like, "No way, two barreling days in the same week?"
About an hour later there was a super steep outside wave that walled up again on the inside. The guy next to me seemed pretty intimidated so I thought to myself, "Hell yea, this is so steep it'll probably barrel for a few seconds before it closes out..." Lo and behold, it does! The wave is so steep that my tail slides from the getgo on the drop, but before it closes out I see it starting to barrel before it owns me. I am about 99% sure this is the wave that f'ed my board up, since I distinctly remember bumping my head hard after I pop up in the wishwash. After I paddled back out the same guy (who didn't seem to ever have any super fun waves) was like, "What? You got that?"
There were some sweet actual shoulders, since I had a decently long session I didn't bother counting, but a few dozen multi-turns/finisher waves for sure.
I'm so screwed tomorrow if it's 6-8ft again, I hate duckdiving on my fish. I'll attach some pics of the nasty dents later. Turkey prepping time?

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:00-10:15AM
5-6ft w/occasional overhead sets 14sec
Slight offshore-> slight onshore
5/5 (any legit barrels = unquestionable 5/5)

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