Sunday, November 9, 2008

Paddle paddle paddle duck dive paddle paddle paddle duck dive x alot

Fun, relaxing, and productive session for sure. The walls of mushy windswell chop truly provided for some exhausting paddling. This is one of those feelings that inspires my surfing, the wear-me-down, I-have-to-get-out-of-the-water-because-my-arms-are-rubber sessions. If you can walk to the lineup, you aren't surfing.
Overall the waves obviously weren't great, but there certainly was some decent power to them. This storm swell hit County Line at such an angle that every single wave had some nice little carvable slabs to work with. Chest-shoulder high destroy-you flops (only because the ocean was ridiculously choppy) would wipe out the three person lineup every few minutes. Quite a selection of waves, and no doubt that there were some fun little rides had.
Killing the arms was the intense cross-shore wind. From the NW was a 20mph steady breeze providing such an intense air current that it was literally not possible to sit still the entire session. Certainly provided for some laughs at the end of waves, shoot the board in the air a bit and boom, the board is literally pulling you down the beach as it floats in the air.
I would love to have spent another hour out there, but I actually have things to do today (boo!)
The future looks a little bleak, hopefully the week will be surfable but no question it will be small. I'm thinking Jalama/West beaches up north as there's supposed to be a nice 10ft/12sec NW swell this coming week. I probably won't, but I will taunt myself by thinking about it anyway.
Re-heated pizza for breakfast it is!

Summary:
County Line, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:00-8:15
3-5ft 6-8sec windswell choppp
INTENSE cross shore
2/5 overall

No comments: