Wednesday, November 12, 2008

More more!

Summary
More more! If the tides weren't so poopy Surfrider would be absolutely amazing. LONNNGGG period swell, clean windless conditions. Firm waves, but the tides started to mush the swell just a tad. Go away 7ft swings! Go away!
Waves
Waist +, steep quick breaking (but not too closeoutish) waves. Long 18ish second period, pretty consistent overall. Better size earlier on, the high high tide push as the morning went on certainly brought down wave size a bit.
Crowds
Very few people. The beach was peaky up and down, but there was a nice left just east of station 9, so I hung around there with one or two other people throughout the morning.
Weather
Cold again, no winds so glassy conditions, but the water was certainly chilly. It should probably be low 70's by the afternoon here in Malibu, slight onshore. Maybe I'll get a chance to go out again. Who likes being productive anyway?
Forecast
I'm not sure what to put here other than lacking. South swell is nothing but, there is a nice NW swell hitting Central/Northern California now, and I think it should push past PC for some waves in Ventura on Sat/Sun. We'll see, I'm thinking I will probably head up to Jalama or Pismo (wishful, I know) on Friday or Saturday, as the models right now looks like 12sec 8ft (fri) 15sec 7ft (sat) swell, so some fun overhead+ waves. This little stuff is killing me, I can't handle it.
Eventful Stuff
Other than the obnoxious two surfers who wouldn't shut up with their hooting and hollaring? Definately better than the gang of kids who were trying to surf here yesterday. For about ten minutes wherever I moved I was circled. Shiat, all I want is some waves! Today certainly held some damnnn fun ones. The ridiculous high tide meant quite a few were plunging on the beach at the end, and there is no doubt that my butt ploppped on the sand after a few nice waves. No harm done. Enough room on these shoulders for cutbacks & wrap arounds, too small to be perfect, but big enough to step into the fun range! I met a nice young lady and her little kid at Lily's, Jenna and Sebastian. Making frizbees for a living? Badass.

Re: County Line: I wanted more. More did not want me.

Zuma s9-10
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
10:30-12:00
2-3ft with plus sets (16-20sec)
Still
3/5 overall

County Line, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
4:00-5:15
2-3ft, mushy
Onshore
2/5

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