Fun, hollow, quick barrels. I'm not sure what else must be said, since that pretty much defines the surf at County Line here today. No real opportunity for a bunch of fancy carving, simply searching for the hollow-as pockets. There were some (but very very few) slower breaking faces, with the opportunity for some cutbacks (e.g. 6ft face, barreled for about two seconds, two cutbacks, then pop off the wave.)
Overall, once again, the high tide didn't kill the waves, and the waves that were surfable were pretty decent shape and size. Conditions left a bit to be desired---nice little offshore wind cleaning up the faces, but a pretty thick layer of fog off and on for the whole session.
Only "incident" was the fool who constantly let his board get washed around, pretty near smacking me in the face. I'm sympathetic to people learning to surf---but if you're going to learn on the weekend, don't do it when there's decent sized waves that WILL school you AND put everyone around you in danger. AKA, if you're paddling out and there's a big wave, and someone 10 feet behind you, don't let go of your board intentionally---accidentally once or twice is OK, but NOT every time. C'est ca!
Surfrider was OK. Wave shape was pretty lacking, not sure if it was the tides or what. Oh well, evening surfing is always relaxing, the sunset a welcomed break from life in/near LA. No amazing waves, some fun little shoulders every now and then, waves not big enough for intense bottom turns, but after a few pumps the waves loosened up and gave you the opportunity for some little cutbacks. Nothing fancy, but crappy waves (not too crappy...) with no crowds is alwalys fine by me.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:00AM-10:00AM
3-5ft faces with bigger sets, 17-18sec
Light offshore -> warbly onshore
3/5 overall
Surfrider, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
4:30PM-6:40PM
2-4ft faces, 5ft sets 17-18sec
Pretty still air---glassy
2/5 overall
Sunday, October 26, 2008
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