Wednesday, October 22, 2008

"It feels like the first time..."

...like it never did before."

That's a decently accurate summary of this morning. Fun, fun, fun, and more fun. Decent size, not too big but certainly some big set waves. Overall the smaller waves had much better definition and shoulders. There were some pretty bad ass surfers here today again, some folks getting filmed and such.
Quite a few inspiring fun waves. Early on there had been some perfect slow developing shoulders, steep drop and straight shot with maneuvering room for plenty of cutbacks, wrap-arounds, and a few people were teasing the ocean with some little airs. I don't know what to call the wave of the day because there were tons of fun ones. Not too crowded so there was plenty of opportunity to catch them.
I went out with Eric and Ed came later on for a while.
This little board finally feels me as much as I feel it. There is nothing I'm not comfortable doing on it now, cutbacks feel completely natural---the board is little more than an extension of my feet. For other people though...like the funkyass kneeboard some guy was surfing on, or the flat-nosed shortboard...I think they get a little different feeling. Malibu is crazy, truly some hilarious characters here. Having decent waves certainly brings out the more courteous side of folks, I actually had some guy tell me to go for it when he had position. Balla! I'm shooting for tomorrow afternoon surfing after a midterm (for an hour and a half or so probably) but we'll see. Waves inspire me, please stay here for the rest of the year!

Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
6:45AM-10:15AM
3-4ft with occasional 5ft set~16sec
Offshore -> slight onshore
4/5!

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