Friday, October 24, 2008

Not as hot as it thought...

The internet forecasts were not quite spot on. OK, the new SW/SSW swell hit, but it's not anywhere near as consistent or nice as expected. County line was a bit walled up, Zuma defined sectiony, and Surfrider was the safe fallback. Overall conditions left a lot to be desired. Whichever break, sets were few and far inbetween. They had good size (there were some head high sets at County) but they walled up too quick on the beach breaks, and the tides dicked with the point breaks.
Overall I'll say I should have just gone to Surfrider since there are always nice waves there, but I wanted to be fancy. My loss. Hopefully tomorrow is a bit better than today is. Perhaps I'll do a night session as the offshores are supposed to continue. We shal see!
Overall, Jack in the Box meaty breakfast burritos are good, but ain't no competition for Lily's! I met a girl from Pepperdine over at Surfrider. GIVE ME WAVES!
I had a few decent ones, and I had a few amazingly owned waves too. It is inspiring to see people get decent rides, and I only wish I got more. I had the same owned-nose problem (almost) at County again where the backwash launched me in the air. I didn't smack anything but it literally launched me two feet in the air off my board. Some of the guys were talking/laughing about it. There were two guys talking in French there too. I'm a bit rusty so I didn't throw down, but looking back at it I really should have. Seriously though, French guys have hair problems. Genetics suck...good thing I got the maternial genes!
Summary:
County Line, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:00AM-9:45AM
2-4ft with bigger sets, 18sec
Light offshore
2/5+ overall

Zuma s11-12, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
10:00-10:30
1-3ft (yawn), 18sec
Still air
1/5

Surfrider 3, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
11:00-1:00
2-3ft with occasional 4+ft sets 18 sec
Slight onshore
2/5

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