Malibu Surfrider---Basically I felt like snoozing on my alarm a bit, so I didn't get out too early. Too bad, the waves today were bad ass. Not huge, but certainly good size. The sets broke with some clean, clear, distinguishable shoulders anywhere from waist high to slightly overhead. Sounds a bit ridiculous, and most of the waves were on the lower end of the spectrum, but there were some NICE fun waves. Pretty tootin crowded considering it's a Tuesday (and so far as I know, the surf wasn't suppose to be more than waist-chest, but I guess everyone lucked out!)
It's hollow, there's offshore winds, there are no fires near by, and there's tons of fun to be had. There were some nice little barrels on the occasional set. Just over shoulder high, beautiful right, in the perfect spot when it started to barrel. It's been a few weeks since I've had that feeling, so I was exhilarated for the two seconds before the wave sectioned and raped me. Pretty much all the good waves were rights (duh...it's Malibu) and I certainly got my fair share.
Sets were few and far between, probably 10-15min between the good size ones, more sometimes. As such, people were a-hole snakers when the sets came. Perfect example is the self-described local (I've seen him there pretty frequently, so I'll give him the benefit of the doubt) who had some random guy drop in on him. The random guy looks and sees that he dropped in, keeps dicking around. The hilarious part of the story is the massive shove Mr. Self-described gave the other one. Asshattish, but absolutely hilarious. I gave a few stink eyes and I know some of the guys saw me, but I didn't do anything of that sort---not worth getting messed up over. Plenty of waves for everyone (boo crowds!)
Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:45AM-12:15AM
3-4ft with 5-6ft destroy-you surprise sets ~18sec
Offshore -> slight onshore
4/5!
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