Apparently I think that water up here is cold. Like brain-freezing, hand-numbing cold. It makes me sad when I shiver uncontrollably. I think I'll have to blame it on the wind as much as the water though. Fun little waves, not too big, shoulders not too well defined, but there was time for some nice sharp little cutbacks and whack-a-faces. Not too many but a few. Other than that not too eventful, my dad walked down from home and watched for a bit. I don't remember winters being THAT cold...but they're suppose to be a lot colder, so we'll see at thanksgiving time if I'll get owned. The swell's will pick up a lot by then, so it'll probably be head+ consistently around then. The big guy up there likes to make holidays surfable, and weekends, so I'm genuinely hopeful! If its not too big I'll head out to Point Reyes beach, I haven't gone surfing there before but it looks nice, steep, and raw---just how I like it!
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
8:15AM-10:15AM
2-4ft, ~15sec
Onshore-> still-> heavy cross shore
3/5 overall
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