...wow. Wow wow wow. Tides aren't as bad as they were, hefty offshore breeze, and stunning sunrise. Oh...and decent 4-5ft sets. What's the deal? It's wayyyy better than it's suppose to be. I hope the rest of the weekend keeps up with this. Truly inspiring. It was certainly my best surf session since I've been down here in LA. Perfect positioning for every wave. Enough power in the ocean for a lot of sharp turns, wrap around cutbacks, and huge pockets. Did I mention that there was no one else surfing 2nd for the first 30 minutes? In that 30 minutes there were six good size sets, and six amazing 4 1/2ft + rights.
I'm not sure I can say anything else. I'm not sure I want to. I just want to go surfing again. I am VERY glad that I got up early for a little hour and a half session. Too bad I have class til 10:00 tonight. Zuma tomorrow...hopefully this good size swell keeps inspiring the ocean for us!
And...I dinged the rail of my board a bit. I'm pretty sure it was on my head and not on a rock though, since it's a pretty flat little smash, and it's not too shallow since the waves are decent size today. Regardless, it makes me a little bit sad (but makes the day no less worth it!)
Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
6:00AM-7:30AM
4-5ft, ~10sec/14sec
Offshore bam bam pow strong
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