An unabashedly gorgeous day. I couldn't ask for a better break from class than a clear day at Surfrider with a little offshore Santa Ana and the warm sun beating down. If the waves were as amazing as the atmosphere...I don't even know what to think.
All I know is that the waves were small...sectiony waist highish. There were some very inconsistent bigger sets, but sets were more sectiony, walled up closeouts than anything else. Relaxing for sure, but surely not the best surf day in the world. Surfing essentially consisted of a ridiculous amount of pumping and some more pumping, just to stay on the wave. I saw some hilarious waves, a thirty second ride where the guy literally pumped the whole time, and the wave closed out before he could use that speed (he was racing!) to get some air or anything.
I got a decent little chestish high slow developing shoulder, and I feel a little guilty because I dropped in on some guy and kind of jacked it, but he wouldn't have made it to the pocket so I deguilt myself like that. Pocket the whole time, probably a 20 sec plus wave, just pumping and relaxing with a little whack-it close.
Again I have reaffirmed that good waves bring better attitudes than crappy little waves. Some shortboarders were trashing longboarders saying effectively that they have 1st point so why are they stealing the waves at 2nd/3rd. Then he reflected to his buddy there that the "attitude towards surfing is totally different for shortboarders." I thought to myself, "No shit? Longboarders aren't complete asshole posers like you?" I certainly didn't say it, but no question I was about to. Seriously though, I thought surfing was a relaxing BREAK from tools like this? Guess not, but it should be!
Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
6:45AM-10:15AM
2-3ft with occasional 4+ft sets~16sec
Offshore
2/5
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