Today held some fun, hollow waves! The morning's high tide actually helped wave shape at County Line, something that the tide usually kills. Steep steep steep faces, mostly walled up closeouts, but there certainly were some distinguishable shoulders every now and again. Far more consistent sets than the past week has held, not sure why but it's certainly welcomed.
Overall most of what I found was hollow left shoulders, definitely the opportunity for some carving. Occasionally there would be a hotly contested and battle to catch the rare rights, and some of them were pretty darn amazing. One was a six foot clean face, defined shoulder, moderately slow break but amazingly steep and hollow---pretty quick run, straight down the face, bottom turn, sharp steep fins-out cutback at the top, limping down the face for the rest of the wave because I killed my speed just a tad too much. Mad hollow left barrels, and I got my fair share.
After going to Malibu in the late afternoon, I'm positive that any decent break was firing today. Surfrider made me cry with the 100+ that were at 2nd/3rd in the late late afternoon, but the waves were so good I didn't know if the tears were of sadness or happiness. More barrels, I feel they were a little smaller but definitely more defined and workable shoulders. There were some decent carves and some decent faces.
FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT
WTF is wrong with people? It's Malibu, on the weekend, expect people to drop in on you! People unwittingly (and intentionally) did it to me today, and I unintentionally returned the favor. But seriously: having a vulgarityfest, splashing water someone else, and mashing him in the face and body with your fist, THEN breaking his leash and taking his board? What the hell kind of kooks surf in Malibu? Get over it, committing felony assault over a little 5ft wave? Not only is that not worth going to jail over, it bastardizes the sport. I don't even know what to say or think, other than a sense of absolute disappointment. I feel for the guy who dropped in---people do make mistakes, no one is perfect. This same disrespectful attitude unfortunately flourishes here in Malibu. GTFO I say, if you can't learn to respect those around you, you shouldn't be surfing at all, much less ruining the atmosphere for everyone at one of the best breaks in Southern California.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:00AM-10:45AM
3-5ft faces with bigger sets, 17-18sec
Light offshore
3/5 overall
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
5:00PM-6:45PM
3-5ft faces, bigger sets, 17-18sec
Bumpy onshore initially, glassy later
3/5 overall
Saturday, October 25, 2008
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment