Nothing remarkable this morning other than a ridiculous amount of surfers for a mediocre/small swell. I guess it's because it's the tail end of a pretty good one. Beautiful morning, beautiful sunrise, so-so waves. I'll be honest: Malibu is best when it's so-so waves mid week not pre or post good swell, because then there's no one there---or when it's too big and the SoCal fairweather surfers (which is 90% of them) get scared off. There were people this morning so it was unremarkable.
I had some fun waves, most of them were lefts because, once again, people down here are intimidated by them and would rather go crazy on 3 ft rights. I'm happy, although I feel like this weekend off/depressing nose smack has slightly dampened my surfing spirits. Time to whet that appetite: surf ce soir! Mabye there'll be a little glass off window---I'm going to hit up Surfrider in a few hours and see if it's worth my time. Lazymode big board lets go!
Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, LA County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
6:15AM-9:30AM
3-4ish 16/17sec
And so the evening session is the kind of stuff that makes me love surfing. I could not have asked for anything more. Relaxing, fun, easy. I was a bit fatigued from the past few days, but in every aspect it was a refreshing session. The fact that the fading light scares people away makes me happy too. The offshore breeze cleaned the waves up a lot. Clean clear distinguishable faces. Mmm yummy.
Quite a few timely, beautiful waves that are memorable. I'd say the most so was the head high shoulder that popped up out of nowhere. Apparently I was in a decent position for it, mad steep drop, quick little shoulder, with a whack-it at the end. Nothing fancy just powerful and clean. I wish it didn't section so quick, it would have been amazing if it didn't. There were also a surprising amount of beautiful lefts. I genuinely like lefts more than rights on my big board, so maybe that's why they stick out in my mind.
Apparently an Ultralight homebuilt plane crashed just 150 feet from the Malibu pier http://www.latimes.com/news/local/la-me-planedown8-2008oct08,0,3191774.story
while I was surfing. There were sirens and helicopters all that fancy stuff, and no one really knew what was going on. Eventually once the new blood came into the lineup they told everyone that a plane crashed by the pier. I was skeptical but apparently the internet doesn't lie. There must have been some damn good sets rolling through for no one to notice a plane crash...if only they were that memorable!
Surfrider 2/3, LA County
7'6" Al Merrick M13
5:00PM-7:30PM
2-4 16/17sec
Light onshore--> moderate offshore
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