Monday, October 27, 2008

I feel like not working...

Summary
So I decided to take a break and go surfing. I held no true expectations other than escaping a day otherwise filled with eight plus hours of intense thought and reflection.
Waves
Small, weak, poor shaped 1-3 ft waves, with VERY occasional 4ft sets. Tides were 1'-2', so pretty low for Surfrider which contributed significantly to the generally walled up closeout shape. I was on the Blue Beast, so I had some good little rides, but they sure were little.
Crowds

Malibu is full of cooks and crowds what? Today would honestly be a good day for someone to learn to surf here---not enough swell to bring out the big dogs, but absolutely beautiful. The hour I was at Second/Third saw no more than ten surfers at those breaks in the whole of the time.
Weather
Malibu has had some off-and-on patchy fog here for most of the day. During the session though, the fog was pushed a few miles off the coast, the sun slowly sinking in the sky, and the beautiful warm sun beating down on the ocean and the few of us in it. Low-mid 70's.
Forecast
Good waves follow big crowds. This week LA will see few surfers, much less crowds. Basically I'm looking at tomorrow as a laundry day, and the rest of the week as catch-up-on-sleep/school days. 1-3ft faces, crappy swell period, shouldn't see much of anything until this coming weekend. The internet models show a nice sized W/WNW swell hitting Sunday the 2nd, peaking early Saturday, dying Tuesday. Shoulder+ waves at decently exposed W beaches. That pretty much means Ventura will be firing, and depending on how the actual angle, maybe north North LA county will see it...hopefully.
Eventful Stuff
I was surfing with one bootie. G'damn Malibu rocks slashing my left foot open yesterday. Curse you.

Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
7'6" Al Merrick White Dove
4:00PM-5:00PM
1-3ft, 16sec
Negligible wind
1/5 overall

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