Today's realization comes from post-surf walking back to car, looking at my feet drip blood. While it is Surfrider, the tides are far more to blame than the spot. Low low tide here means a ten minute trek over rocks and pebbles and shells to get in the ocean. It would be worth it if there was a little bit more power to the waves.
We've got the sky filled with ash, but thankfully there was a little onshore breeze (how often are you thankful for that?) I ended up spending most of the session around the corner of 3rd, which I'll call Corner to simplify my life. Lots of nice little lefts, far more power than Surfrider had today for whatever reason, and far less fear of/pain caused by rocks. I paddled from 2nd to Corner because it looked like the waves had some decent definition to them, and they certainly did. Biggest of the day was probably Chest+, and that was very very rare, almost all were little dinky nothings. Certainly relaxing and amazing, very rarely can one surf in Malibu on a sunny day, morning or afternoon, without a horde of people. I'm in the mood for some 10ft+ faces right now, I feel like getting destroyed, but there'll be enough of those in December. Hopefully October swells in SoCal pick up a bit. It really has been pretty good down here the last month, but I'm a fan of excellent, and that means big waves!
No inspiring waves, lots of fun ones at Corner, one beautiful little left followed by my board whacking me upside my head. I guess it wants me to take better care of it and not surf around all these rocks. Too bad.
Surfrider/Corner, Malibu
7'6" Al Merrick White Dove
2:00PM-5:30PM
1-3ft, 17sec
Slight onshore
2/5 overall
03:42PM -0.3' Low Tide
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