Summary
Good! It was good! It was great! The best Surfrider session I've had all semester for sure, probably surf session all semester. Size, shape, consistency, lack of crowds, beautiful weather, and relative painlessness of waves---that and a super easy paddle.
Waves
Good size, good shape, super fast. Offshores all morning, early on strong enough to keep every face open enough to let it barrel. Chest + consistently, a lot of shoulder high sets, and a few head high sets. Pretty awesome, we need more!
Crowds
Not really. There were about five people at 2nd when I first got out, 30 by the time I left. Honestly not crowded given the relative consistency and good size of the waves.
Weather
Chilly, offshores, but beautiful and perfect. Spectacular sunrise, Socal perfection in every way (if that's possible...)
Forecast
There's swell. It's not spectacular, but it should be fun. Great conditions all week I predict. I'm optimistic, but God owes us some waves so.
Eventful Stuff
Lance came to the beach with me. Absolutely beautiful day to come too. When we got to the beach he was like, "Holy shit no way I'm going body surfing in those monsters..."
I pushed up off the ocean floor on one wave and my hand got smashed by purple spikey things. I got most of them out while in the water but I actually had to take my pocket knife and cut a little opening to get the parts that broke off in my hand later on in the afternoon. Regardless, well worth it.
Wave of the Day
This one's easy. When I first paddled out I was giddy. Super fast clean rights all the way up and down 2nd. Easily chest high, most shoulder, super consistent, super amazing barrels every wave. That only lasted for about ten minutes but damn, I had a good ten minutes. In and of itself worth getting up for.
Summary:
Surfrider 2, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
6:30-9:00
3-5ft Groundswell 16-18sec
4+/5
Lance
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