Saturday, April 4, 2009

Surfing For Cancer

Summary
Since I got like four hours of sleep and am doing Relay For Life for the rest of the day...that's what I'm surfing for today. And let me say, my surfing was on fire. Thank you for your inspiration.
Waves
High tide shorepound. Good size, powerful, workable (though quick) shoulders generally. Not great shape for the most part (since it's mostly windswell) but there certainly was some true potential with the right attitude, board, and physical fitness.
Crowds
Not. Literally, I was the first guy to go out. A handful more came out once the sun reached over the cliffs, but completely uncrowded. I had my own personal photographer for about 30 minutes too =)
Weather
Crisp cool breeze out of the North/NE, pretty much straight offshore, keeping faces super open.
Forecast
Looks mediocre, but we know what potential exists...
Eventful Stuff
Relay for Life til 1:30AM the night before so I didn't sleep much at all (mostly because I didn't feel like taking the laundry off my bed so I just slept on the couch...)
Wave of the Day
Oh shit, the best barrel I've had in SoCal in...mabye ever? Well, recent history for sure. Pretty much right after the camera man set up right infront of me (since no one else was out...) a sick shoulder+ high barrel set up perfectly, three or four second completely sick coverup. I paddle back out and see another wave coming in so I paddle for it, get it, and get three or four good turns in on it. When I get back out the guy is looking straight at me with his camera and I think to myself, "fuck yea, my sick board is going to be on some surf site somewhere I gurantee it..."

Summary:
Westwards, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
6:15-7:35
3-5ft windswell (and groundswell mixed in)
4/5

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