Tuesday, April 14, 2009

A little mushy but still pretty fun!

Summary
Decent size, decent shape, decent conditions, not spectacular but certainly not poor. Tons of waves all over the place, rights and lefts. I would argue not super shreddable, but pretty shredable.
Waves
OK all around the board. A little funky shape, a little difficult to pull into, but size is significantly smaller than yesterday, and conditions certainly more marginal.
Crowds
There were a handful out for sure. Early on maybe 20 out between 2nd/3rd, upwards of 60 later on. Not crowded but there are some mighty fine surfers out today.
Weather
A little funk---a little warbly because of the overnight winds. Not bad, but certainly a little imperfect. Certainly cold, overcast, etc. Winds should pick up (cross/on) in the afternoon.
Forecast
Looks mediocre---windy for awhile, then warm!
Eventful Stuff
Super early morning surf session. I'm tired because I didn't sleep much. My hand hurts because it has a bunch of sea urchin crap stuck in it still, and because it's pretty cold out still.
Wave of the Day
I was sitting super far outside, thinking and hoping that decent size set would come so I would have no competition for a wave. One came, I was still far inside but I managed. Seriously the best left I've ever seen at Surfrider. Shoulder high, straight drop, super bowly very quick, but I dug my rails as hard as they could go without the tail slipping out, and made it. No cutbacks or turns, just a as-close-to-getting-barreled-as-you-can-going-left-but-not-closeout wave at a right pointbreak. Damn it was exhilarating.
The first wave of the day I got a nice 3sec chest high barrel. That was a good way to start the day off...

Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
6:15-9:00
3-4ft w/ 5ft sets 16-18sec
3/5
Mia/Steve

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