Monday, April 6, 2009

Umm...uncrowded Surfrider?

Summary
I guess people should stop looking at Surfline reports and start reading buoys. Surfrider was firing, amazing waves, decent breaks between sets, good shape, great quick sections. Not perfect, not spectacular, but overall pretty dang fun.
Waves
Good sized chest+ waves for the most part, though I would argue some pushing shoulder high. I would argue the best shaped waves were the average sized set waves, the bigger they got the more closeouty the sections were (and there were lots of them...) Groundswell waves mixed with a stiff offshore breeze? Workable sections, tons of barrels (honestly almost every wave, which I find ridiculous...), super fast and not a lot of turning, but adrenaline pumping fun for sure.
Crowds
Not. I was seriously alone at 2nd for almost 30 minutes, I had one sick right with a few turns, a wrap around, all that jazz, then a few people from first moved over. There were a few others off and on at 2nd, but maybe 2 waves I didn't go for because of other people (before it started getting busy and crappy by the time I left...)
Weather
Sunny. Cold. Breezy. The day ended up being beautiful in Malibu, the offshores probably continued throughout the day, but I got super chilled because of the imperfections in my perfect wet suit and the fact that I left the hood in my car.
Forecast
Looks good. Looks pretty damn good. This week might be mediocre (the weather turns south...) but there will be some lingering south swell for the whole week. It will be fishy time pretty quick...it's getting lonely sitting in my apartment...
Eventful Stuff
Pretty much la vie est parfait. Je veux rien...seulment des vagues. Plus vagues et plus belle soleil.
Wave of the Day
Well, this is an easy one. Pretty much the sickest drop I've ever had at Surfrider. Super deep super late ~5ft right. I was positive I was too deep but I figured I'd get destroied either way, so might as well go for it. I do, on the drop I'm like "oh snap, if I turn now I can make it" so I do. It's a completely vertical drop, super high up on the face of the wave, but getting shacked as best one can at Surfrider, probably four or five seconds. Absolutely sick drop, I wish I had some pics of it.


Summary:
Surfrider 2, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
6:45-8:45
3-5ft groundswell
3/5

No comments: