Summary
Early on was absolutely awe-inspiring amazing. Beautiful shoulders, barrels galore, and lots and lots of waves. Things died down almost right after Steve/Mia arrived, but it was still loads of fun, just a few more closeouts...
Waves
Good sized, I would argue a few head high sets for sure. Most were probably waist-chest high, but quite a few shoulder high and above. Mix of windswell and groundswell, West and South, so pretty much everywhere was beautiful, though Westwards was tromps bigger than anywhere else (according to a few other surfers and Mia/Steve who checked the others out...)
Crowds
Not crowded, but there were a few others out. Most came out after the quality had died, but whatever. There were pretty much only two guys out ripping early on, both were surfing right next to me (and inspiring me!)
Weather
Sunny, crisp cool offshore breeze.
Forecast
Looks...mediocre, but perhaps doable. We shall see, I am optimistic.
Eventful Stuff
Lots and lots of dolphins. No dolphin hugs unfortunately, but I tried.
Wave of the Day
Sitting super far outside, I had this feeling that a big set was coming. So I sat and waited for almost twenty minutes (while the inside was still pretty good...) Then I saw it---a head high outside wave lining up perfectly for me, both position on the beach and back from the beach. I'm a little far inside, but that's ok, I know I'm pretty good at late drops and can't let this jewel right pass me by. So I paddle, I get it, quick little dont-even-do-a-bottom-turn-it's-so-steep "drop", and make it. It pretty much instantly jacked up when moving over the (steep Westwards) sandbar. Maybe four seconds after making the drop, me surfing completely parallel to the beach, it gives me a completely overhead I-don't-have-to-duck-at-all sized barrel. Not only was this a nice barrel, it was a perfect barrel, covering me head to toe (I was super deep) for at least four or five seconds. Once it really hit the inside sandbar (aka shorepound) it rocked me.
I was done. That wave just made not only the day of surfing complete, but also the week, the month. As I'm paddling back out to utter contentness, the guy who missed the wave because he was sitting too far inside recounted what he saw to me and was pretty much like, "Holy shit, that was the nicest wave of the entire day hands down. Huge effing barrel that held up forever. I'm jealous." That's not verbatum but I think it pretty much recounts the jist of it. Dammnnn I'm so content with life right now, holy shit I feel great.
Summary:
Westwards, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:20-9:45
3-5ft (inconsistent) windswell, groundswell mix
4/5
Mia, Steve
Sunday, April 5, 2009
G'damn Alex, wake up earlier!
Labels:
4/5,
barreled like a mofo,
friends,
legit surfing,
Malibu,
MX,
Socal,
spring,
super fun wave,
surfing,
Westwards
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