Mad tired

Usually I wake up early and go surfing, but today the 4AM alarm plopped me in a car and sent me 500 miles north. Home rocks, a lot. Cold water, real characters, no attitudes, and big fun waves. Oh...and the puppies.
Apparently my body has adapted to the warmth of Southern California waters because after about an hour in the water my little toes (the one opposite the big toes, I don't know the technical term for toes) felt tingly and numb.
The waves were decent sized, walled up closeouts. Certainly some fun shoulders to be had with a little luck on your size. Cross-shore winds and misty/rainy conditions were surprisingly pleasant, definately a change from sunny/rainless Socal. Overall I had probably ten worthwhile shoulders, all mad fun because of the decent swell. Of course there were also a bunch of quick paddle, maybe-it-won't-rape-me waves which would usually destroy me.
Overall I deem my day a success if only for my wave of the day. A nice slightly overhead wave pops up out of nowhere and catches me completely by surprise. I've scientifically deduced that this wave wanted to be played with, because for the fifteen seconds that it lasted there was a solid offshore wind, a beautiful clean face, and a steep, slow developing shoulder. I call it a success for one reason: two prospect-surfers on the beach went back to their cars and donned their wetsuits in certainly less than ideal conditions solely because of how much it rocked. Sharp bottom turn, clipping the face, bottom turn, whack-the-closeout, get tumbled about. I did learn something though: apparently my knee can reach my cheek, something I have difficulty repeating now.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
1:30PM-4:30PM
4-6ft, 10-12sec
Breezy cross shore & rainy