Saturday, September 27, 2008

Foggy fun

Apparently today's shorepounding waves are pretty vicious, because I saw blood dripping off half the surfers heading back to their cars. Nothing serious, just little knicks and cuts here and there. Personally I f'ed myself at the very beginning. My hand slipped when duck diving when FIRST paddling out under the FIRST wave. Board whacks me in the nose, hurts like a beezie but it didn't bleed so I figure it's not broken.
Overall conditions left alot to be desired, but there were waves and there were the occasional shoulders. The reality is that 4/5 waves that look good would close out in 2 seconds and rape you. The 1/5 were pretty darn fun shoulders though, steep, clean, definately some little mini barrels. Best waves of the day from what I saw were on the shorebreak, lefts over by the house, quite a few fun ones. Overall that section of the spot was far more consistent than the point.
Nothing amazing, but the wave of the day was a beautifully set up, perfect spot left, probably only about a 15 second ride, if that. Basically that's it: a left, nothing fancy, just in a huge pocket waiting for it to close out the whole time, but it didn't. No fancy tricks or anything, just a straightshot beautiful little mini barrel.
My sister came out with her boyfriend and she brought her new board. She toodled around and snuck a few waves then got owned by the board + her head. That = end session.
I really wish the tides would drop like...5 feet, then this spot would be on fire. I headed over to Surfrider after Lily's but didn't find a convenient parking space (aka any at all within a 10 minute walk) so decided to just head back and take a shower. That would have been mad crowded with asshat wave-stealing jerks anyway, so it worked out for the better.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
6:15AM-9:45AM
2-4ft, ~14sec
Pretty glassy, loads of fog, mad high tide...again

1 comment:

Adrienne said...

Hi Alex! I didn't realize that this day was almost three months ago. I can't live in fear of being owned again by those waves. Now, my only fear is being frozen. I can get over that pretty quickly.
Let's go surfing together again soon!
I read some of your posts. (I hope you don't mind...) Awesome blog!
I have a blog, too, but I never write in it. You've inspired me to write more and to get off my ass and into the ocean.
xoxoxo