Bright n' early

Once again I figured an early morning rendez-vous with the ocean would treat me better than conversing with crowds. The reality is that even at 6AM there are still dozens of people surfing Surfrider in Malibu. Most of them are at 1st, longboarders balling it under a full moon. I started off at 2nd and wiggled around between the waves at 2nd and 3rd.

As it's Malibu, almost every wave is a right (which is repetitive, but damn those waves are fun!) Chest to shoulder, with one beautiful beautiful beautiful head high wave, which was unquestionably the most entertaining of the day. This head high wave was a real stunner, undeveloped shoulder which wanted me to ride it. Straight down the face, sharp bottom turn, fast cutback at the top, straight in and through a marvelous ten second pocket. As my stunner wave starts closing out I screwed up the wham-the-closeout whack, and end up shooting my board and self about ten feet in the air. Mad fun.
Other than that, it was a pretty calm morning with nice offshore winds. Probably twenty-five fun and ten really good waves.
Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu, LA County
7'6" Al Merrick M13
6:00AM-10:00AM
3-4ft, 13-15sec
Glassy offshore