Tuesday, September 23, 2008

"It's better than playing Nintendo."

What a beautiful morning. If there were actually some waves, it would be pretty much a perfect day for surfing. I went with Jillian early up to County Line---wind blew my M13 over and dinged it against a rock. It's not too bad, but of course it's right on the rail, again.
The surf up at County Line was marginally small. I think the moderately high/rising tides pretty much killed the chance of any really good slow developing shoulders from coming through. Oh well. First time she surfed and she skimmed to shore on a few of them. No wetsuit for me and the ocean pretty much owned me. Not having body fat sometimes sucks. No amazing waves, some fun little shore pounds though.
Malibu fared far better. It was literally the emptiest that I have ever seen it there. Given, it was mad small, but if I could get decent rides on my 7'6", there's no excuse for longboarders not to go out. Two foot waves make it impossible to do any fancy surfing, but sometimes you just need some simple relaxing shoulders. Honestly, this was probably the most relaxing session I've had since I was down here. No fighting for waves, no intense paddle, no frightening water or ear infections, simply clean waves, no wind, beautiful sun, and pleasant smalltalk with friendly surfers. Go figure.
Oh, and my ear plugs, while a little uncomfortable, are amazing.
Tomorrow is probably Malibu 2nd/3rd again, tides are pretty high at 3-4ft during surfing time tomorrow.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
6:30AM-8:30AM
2-3ft, ~13sec
Glassy; windless
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Surfrider, Malibu
7'6" Al Merrick M13
9:00AM-11:00AM
1-3ft, ~13sec
Glassy initially, cross shore later

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