Monday, September 22, 2008

It's a good thing I didn't come home only to go surfing...

...because if I did I'm pretty sure my hunger would not be entirely sated. This is retroactive for this past Saturday, apparently there's a million other things on my mind when I'm here.
Summary is mediocre weather and mediocre waves. If I had a huge 8ft+ board I would reflect my luxurious minute long left...but I don't. Kinda dissappointing that the three weeks of beautiful weather that the bay has been getting didn't hold up. Autmn, comeon, gimmie some 6ft+ windless groundswell...
The earliest part of the day had some fun rights and lefts, moderately clean and defined, not perfect but definitely entertaining. Unfortunately that was the first thirty minutes, and it went downhill from there. I'm genuinely not sure what happened, but one minute there were waves, and the next hour and a half there were not. Pretty much clear cut like that. It's sad because the morning swell was pretty fun size.
On a side note, apparently there was another great white chumming his way around Ocean Beach on Friday. I'm not sure how many that's been in the past month, but at least four or five? Fins are bad.
On the way back down to Socal/Malibu, my sister and I stopped off at Wise in San Francisco. She got a 7'2" board (pink rails and peachy/pink deck) and a wetsuit, so she'll be ballin in the Bu in no time!
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:30AM-9:50AM
3-5ft, 10-12sec
Warbled, semi-glassy & steady onshore

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