Saturday, February 21, 2009

Umm, yea more of this.

Summary
Morning session was legit. The actual morning waves were pretty baller. Easy to drop in, legit shoulders, good turns. Not too barrely. Late morning surf quality drop significantly, waves got pretty walled up. Afternoon surf was super fast, hollow, and dang fun.
Waves
Mmmm delicious. Early morning was pretty much perfect shape. Relatively easy paddle. Turns galore. Unfortunately I f'ed up on most every quality wave I got, but there were some absolutely legit drops. Shape deteriorated as the morning progressed, and the paddle became tedious, as well as pulling into waves.
Crowds
Small, but there were others out there. Mabye two waves I lost becuase of other people. Basically, given how amazing it was there was no one.
Same is true of the afternoon too.
Weather
Sunny, warm, offshore breeze early, very slight onshores mushed everything up before 9, then offshores again in the afternoon.
Forecast
Looks pretty not as good as today. Oh well =) The quality of the past few days has once again been surprising.
Eventful Stuff
I sliced my upper front gum somehow. It was bleeding pretty bad, off and on through when I'm posting this (10PM). This was on one of the I-will-taunt-you-with-barrels-and-close-out-on-your-head waves. It didn't feel good but at least it didn't cut my face or chip a tooth.
And there were ridiculous amounts of dolphins "swimming" (aka mating) around. These guys were real characters today, flopping up and down for more than hour. Pretty sweet.
One big set wave in the late morning completely obliterated me. I duck dived "under" it maybe 5 feet too far inside after it broke. It snatched my board from me (I have tight grip), and sucked me all the way to the bottom of the sand (I was in the lineup before this wave...so it was at least 6 or 7 feet deep...) My board popped up tombstone style. I was under for at least ten seconds. Not fun, even though it really is. I just wish I were on that wave....looked like it was going to have a sick shoulder.
Wave of the Day
Probably because of the shared experience with Eric, one right in the afternoon. He took the first wave of the set, I took the second. Mine was just a drop, barrel for mabye a second and a half, then absolutely mashed. The way he was telling me this wave went was just hilarious, me just ducking in fitting, him reflecting his foresight of my sick barrel + nasty schooling.

Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:00-9:30 / 2:30-3:30
3-5ft with some plus sets
3+/5

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