Retro for AMAZING session Sunday
Summary
Holy everything! Absolutely everything came together for an as-close-to-perfect-as-possible session. And to think, I thought it would be little more than mushy crap.
Waves
Beautiful shape. Workable rights and lefts. Hollow sections. Shoulders wide open for carving. Pretty dang fast, but those are the best kind of ways.
Crowds
Me and one other sharing a peak for two hours.
Weather
Beautiful sunny, relatively warm morning. Light offshore breeze. Pretty much the opposite of what was forecast...again.
Forecast
Stormy. I don't have high expectations but with the past two days of surf, who knows?
Eventful Stuff
Surfing Westwards...eventful enough for me I'd say. That and the best So-Cal session I've had all year.
Wave of the Day
Which one? All waves have steep drops, lots with long rides, most with tons of turns. I'll say the first legit left I had, steep drop, bottom turn, three or four nice turns. There were a few almost-air sections, but not quite. =(
Summary:
Westwards, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:45-9:45
5-6ft with overhead sets
4+/5
Monday, February 9, 2009
Absolutely effing amazing
Labels:
4/5,
barreled like a mofo,
legit surfing,
Socal,
surfing,
Westwards,
White Dove,
winter
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