Summary
The ocean is being uncooperative. The last few days have been FAR better than they should have been. There is good size and pretty damn amazing conditions...if you can handle a little bacteria in your system. Super fun.
Waves
Good size, good shape, super workable shoulders. Not perfect by any means (too short of period...and it's Zuma) but still surprisingly great. The paddle either sucked or was cake. The current was pretty nasty. The weather was pretty nice. The tides completely uncooperative but unimportant.
Crowds
A few people out but not crowded. One guy growled at me when I was paddling for a wave (that he missed the drop on) so I was a little wtf'ed out, but other than that there were probably only one or two waves I missed because of other people.
Weather
Sunny, cold, pretty breezy enough that I wore my hoodie...which was also a good choice because of the cold water and constant duck diving.
Forecast
Looks bad. Seriously though, it doesn't look good. Conditions might be OK but there's no swell...til the next storm...when there's size but no conditions. LA NINA I HATE YOU.
Eventful Stuff
I saw Mia's car when I was leaving. Dang the surf was fun. Maybe a little slow but certainly workable with enough upper body paddling strength =)
Wave of the Day
The last good wave I got is the most memorable. Pretty simple right---basically a steep drop then shacked for like 5 seconds, until which point I apparently was going too slow....I got sucked up into the lip and spit out. Also the lifeguard was watching so I thought it was pretty funny. The thing that's killer is I could have made it though if I were sitting a little lower or if I was doing a turn, I was just going too parallel to the wave. Oh well. There were tons of other fun ones (like actually turning, or getting shacked etc.
Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:15-9:30
4-5ft with some 6ft sets, 13sec
3+/5
Solo but Mia was there apparently...
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