Sunday, May 24, 2009

Mmm delicious

Summary
And I'm not talking no breakfast burritos... The swell picked up significant consistency and noticeable size today. The winds didn't cooperate so well, but all in all it was a pretty fun-packed surf session.
Waves
Good size at both breaks. To the point that sets were actually worthwhile fun. Shoulders galore. Surprisingly Westwards was a little more forgiving than most days---not quite as hollow as usual, but plenty of manuvering room. Latigo was...fun as always. Only two paddle boarders out, and I can compete with Longboarders, so I had some absolutely spectacular long, fun, turn filled rides today.
Crowds
Westwards was crowded. Most were a bit farther West than me. I sat pretty far outside and limited my waves to the bombs.
Weather
Overcast and breezy (onshore) at Westwards. I left because it was a tad too crumbly courtesy of the wind.
Sunny and slightly offshore at Latigo. Beautiful open faces, clean as can be. Thank you kelp.
Forecast
Looks good tomorrow. Looks mediocre after that. We'll see.
Eventful Stuff
The guard at Latigo kicked me out. Told me to go back. So I went down to the beach and walked around.
Wave of the Day
Latigo always has minute long spectacular rides, so I'm not even going to bother detailing one of those. It would take far too long and I'm tired.
Westwards had one wave that stands out above all others. A (surprise surprise) left. I was sitting rather far outside, a bomb(ish) 5ft wave comes. Perfect spot, everyone else too far inside. I turn around and start to paddle. I turn around and see the shoulder lining up perfectly. I make the drop, but it's a little later than I thought it was, so I kick the tail with my right foot, and get shacked for a heck of a long time. It opens up for a second and I look and see a dad and his kid (on boards) and another guy about 25 feet apart. I think to myself, "I can make this inbetween them." I do. The look on that kids face was of absolute glee and excitement...as well as a little fear that I was going to mess up and whack him with my board.
I felt like a baller. My surf session was then complete.


Summary:
Westwards, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:30-9:00
3-4ft, 6ft bomb sets
3/5

Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
9:30-11:00
3-4ft, some bigger sets but they had poor shape
3+/5

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